Full Circle

After Kaohsiung, it was time for us to head to the east coast of Taiwan. Instead of a long, tedious drive, we took the scenic coastal train from Kaohsiung’s Main Station all the way to Hualien. If we’d had more time, we would have made stops in Kenting, a beachy destination at the southern tip of the island, and Taitung, a city on the southeastern coast near the Dulan Forest. But although two weeks in Taiwan allowed us to see a lot of the country, it wasn’t nearly long enough to see everything.

Our first stop in Hualien was Qixingtan, a really pretty spot along the coast.
Qixingtan was the only place in Taiwan where a bit of rain fell on us. We made the best of it.

The main attraction around Hualien is Taroko National Park, home of the breathtaking Taroko Gorge. Unfortunately, most of the park has been closed since a devastating earthquake in 2024. Many of the roads and trails aren’t expected to be fully reopened until after 2030. Although we couldn’t access the best views of the gorge and other scenery, we did stay at a hotel inside the park, which gave us some great glimpses of the magnificent natural beauty Taroko has to offer.

Our views of the gorge were mostly limited to what could be seen from the main road leading into the park.
A few trails were open for short distances only, but they still provided some amazing views.
Further on, the trails were completely inaccessible, due to damage from the 2024 earthquake.

Elsewhere in Hualien, we visited Chinghisu Temple, an old Japanese temple that was spared by Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalist Party (the KMT) after the Japanese surrendered Taiwan at the end of WWII. The temple isn’t actively in use, but it’s maintained as a kind of museum.

A view into the Chinghisu Temple.
Notes and wishes left by modern-day visitors to the old temple.
In Hualien, we also took a stroll around the lovely Liyu Lake.
The lake gets its name from nearby Liyu Mountain.
Liyu Lake is a popular spot for recreation and water sports.

For our last activity in Hualien, we hopped aboard some all-terrain vehicles in district 51. It’s a touristy thing to do, but hey, we were tourists!

At slow to moderate speeds, ATVs are generally safe and a lot of fun.
The tour operators took a lot of goofy photos and made sure everyone had a good time.
I mean, some really goofy photos! But getting to play around at the edge of the Pacific Ocean on such a beautiful day was worth the risk of looking like idiots.

After two nights in Hualien and Taroko, it was time for us to head back to Taipei. On the way there, we took in some sights in Yilan County, situated on Taiwan’s northeastern coast. First up was the Fushan Botanical Garden.

Almost nothing was in bloom in Fushan during the time of year we visited, but there were still some beautiful vistas.
We saw lots of wildlife in Fushan, including dozens of these Formosan Reeve’s muntjac deers, which are about the size of medium dogs.
Taiwanese macaques are a common site in Fushan as well, like this momma and her baby.
Various species of egrets forage in Fushan.

Yilan is also home to Taiwan’s world-famous Kavalan Distillery. Though it’s only been around since 2005, Kavalan’s whiskies have won almost a thousand medals in international competitions.

Our gang partook of a five-glass whiskey tasting at Kavalan. The consensus favorite was the sherry-cask single malt. But if I’m being honest, all scotch tastes like rot gut to me.

Our last stop in Yilan was the hot springs of Jiaoxi. It’s another very touristy destination. The hot springs are sourced from natural geothermal wells in the nearby hills.

The hot springs at Jiaoxi.
Anyone can take a dip in Jiaoxi’s public hot springs. Many hotels in the area offer more private experiences.

After a long day in Yilan, we drove back to Taipei, completing our full circle tour of Taiwan. But we still had one more day left to enjoy, so it was time to check out the observation deck on top of Taipei 101, Taiwan’s tallest building and the world’s tallest from 2004 to 2009.

Taipei 101’s eight segments were designed to resemble fast-growing bamboo stalks shaped like Chinese pagodas. Eight is a lucky number in Chinese culture.
From up high, you can really appreciate Taipei’s sprawling growth.
Taipei 101’s observation deck offers many distractions to keep kids of all ages entertained.

Our time in Taiwan was at an end, but we were really glad we made the journey. It’s a fascinating little island nation with lots of tasty cuisine. The people seem pretty happy overall, and there doesn’t seem to be much crime or extreme poverty. The Taiwanese do have to live with the constant threat of a takeover by China. But they also can’t deny their deep ties to their mother country. Though they live in China’s gigantic shadow, they keep carving out their own identity, working hard to build their own prosperity and enjoy their own way of life. With a strong democracy and far more individual freedoms than the Chinese themselves enjoy, Taiwan’s continued independence is vital to a free and better world. We can only hope it stays that way.

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