It’s Not Taihoku Anymore

If you’ve never heard of Taihoku, don’t worry, you’re not alone. It’s what the Japanese called Taiwan’s capital city (known to us as Taipei) during the 50 years when Taiwan was under Japanese colonial rule, from 1895 until the end of WWII in 1945.

These adorable kiddies most likely never heard of Taihoku either.

After Japan surrendered at the end of the war, Taiwan was returned to China, and all traces of Japanese rule were erased. Taihoku became Taipei again.

The entrance to a night market in Taipei.

In 1949, 4 years after the war, communists took over mainland China. So Chiang Kai-shek, the leader of China’s anti-communist government, fled to Taiwan and made it the new home of the Republic of China.

The changing of the guard at the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall in Taipei.

Taiwan’s problem ever since is that it considers itself an independent nation. But China still considers it a province. Unfortunately for Taiwan, most of the world takes China’s side. Or to be more accurate, most of the world has allowed China to bully them into taking its side, since China has stated that it won’t maintain diplomatic relations with any country that recognizes Taiwan separately.

Taiwan’s connections to China are strong, both historically and in modern times.

I don’t understand why democratic nations like the USA go along with this arrangement. Nowadays, Taiwan is also democratic, and far more closely aligned with Western principals of government than communist China is. I think all the major Western powers should recognize Taiwan simultaneously. My guess is that China’s threat to cut off relations would shrivel and die in the face of such unified opposition.

It’s not as if China would stop doing business with the whole Western world if Taiwan was recognized as a sovereign nation.

The people of Taiwan are doing their best to build and maintain a strong economy in the hopes of fending off China’s dominance. Tourism is an important component of that. But ironically, China is where most of Taiwan’s tourists come from.

The Shifen Waterfall is a popular tourist spot near Taipei.

We visited many of the Taipei region’s most famous attractions. One of our favorites was launching sky lanterns in Shifen.

First everyone in your group writes messages and wishes on your sky lantern. Nowadays, the vendors use biodegradable materials to minimize litter and pollution.
Then the lantern’s burner is lit and the controlled fire lifts it into the sky.
Up, up and away.
My beautiful, my beautiful sky lantern.
The lanterns rise high in the sky, carrying many wishes with them.

Eventually, the lanterns burn out and crash into the hills surrounding Shifen. People are paid to retrieve the remains so that the environment is not negatively impacted.

Another big tourist attraction is the Yehliu Geopark, where weird rock formations take on familiar shapes like clouds often do.

This rock formation is known as the Cute Princess.
This one is the Queen’s Head. The poor dear’s neck is getting thinner and thinner due to erosive forces. It’s expected to break by around 2050. Off with her head!
And this one resembles the head of a friendly dragon. So friendly, in fact, that it apparently had an effect on this young lady’s skirt.

Another fun stop was Houtong, a nearly-abandoned coal mining town where hundreds of cats roam the empty streets.

A young tourist enjoys some personal time with one of Houtong’s permanent inhabitants.
I will acknowledge you when I’m good and ready. Or maybe I won’t acknowledge you at all. Unless, of course, you happen to have a tasty treat for me.
This cat looks much friendlier. Which is easily explained by the fact that it’s not a real cat.

No visit to Taipei would be complete without a stroll through the Old Street in Jiufen. It’s packed with tourists but that’s part of the charm.

Good luck getting anywhere fast in Jiufen.

Taipei is a fascinating contradiction of old and new, tradition and modernity. It has deep ties to China and an equally deep fear of being taken over by China. It’s loaded with new money, thanks to the semiconductor industry, and yet parts of it look lost in an economy from an earlier time. It’s the perfect starting point (and ending point) of a longer journey like ours around the island of Taiwan.

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1 Comment
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Caryl
Caryl
11 hours ago

Taiwan looks like a place I would love to visit.

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